The Osa Peninsula is in the south of Costa Rica and is most accessible by plane (Nature Air or Sansa). Although it requires extra effort to reach this area the peninsula remains almost completely wild with the bulk of the area being taken up by Corcovado Park. Here the waters of the Gulfo Dulce and the Pacific meet and there are wide stretches of empty beach ringed with lush rainforest dense with Costa Rican creatures. A true jungle-lover’s paradise. There is very little that is commercialized on the Osa so don’t count on filling your days with excursions and dinners out – travel here to experience the slow pace and thrilling beauty of this unique and wild place.
The Osa Peninsula is home to several ecoresorts including Bosque Del Cabo – a 750 acre preserve perched high upon the cliffs at the furthest extreme of the Osa with the waters of the Pacific Ocean and the Gulfo Dulce easily accessible by foot from the resort. The resort is scattered with luxury bungalows, staff housing, a pool, bar, restaurant and three rental houses. The grounds are host to a huge number of native creatures and the resort hosts an on-site naturalist who can take you on wildlife excursions, or you can simply wander the many trails yourself in search of Costa Rican wonders.
On our visit we flew to Puerto Jimenez from San Jose and were met at the airstrip by our driver from Bosque del Cabo who we had arranged to take us to the grocery store in town before heading out to BDC. Since we were traveling in a group of four we had decided to rent Casa Blanca, on of three rental houses located at the resort. If you book Casa Blanca you can opt out of the resort’s mealplan (though I’ve heard nothing but good things about the cooking and company there!) and do your own cooking at home. We were looking forward to this and were able to find lots of great produce at the market before heading out.
It is about a 45 minute drive to BDC. The road had some nice views of the Gulf and isn’t too bumpy at al (by CR standards!)l. When we arrived at BDC we were greeted warmly with fresh juice cocktails and shown to our dream house – Casa Blanca. This house was stunning. It has two bedrooms, a living room, kitchen, two open-air bathrooms and a HUGE lanai (porch) with outdoor dining, seating, hammocks, AND a fantastic view of the blue waters of the Pacific. How great!!
The whole Bosque del Cabo resort is situated up on a cliff at the very end of the peninsula so it has access to both the Gulf and the Pacific beaches but each requires a real hike to get to. It is worth noting too that it is definitely hotter and more humid down there than other parts of CR so if you venture out where quick-dry clothes and bring plenty of water!
There is tons of wildlife on and around the property. During our stay we saw toucans, macaws, poison dart frogs, crabs, howler monkeys, white faced capuchins, a bird-eating snake, two coatimundis and an agouti. More than anywhere else in the country. The beaches there are totally deserted and completely private. We hiked the Gulfo Dulce trail to swim in the Gulf waters (which are much calmer, and safer, than the Pacific ones). The beaches over there were pristine and as with so much of CR seemingly lost in time. You can arrange to have BDC pick you up at the end of the trail back to the resort. There is a charge for this but it is not much and was totally worth it.
The Pacific beach trail was pretty steep but doable. If you continue down the beach you reach the natural tide pools. The water comes in to the tide pools and creates mini-jacuzzis to sit in and enjoy the view. Even further down, if you are lucky! (the trailhead was SUPER hard to find), you will find a short trail to a small waterfall in a secluded glen that you can stand under and revel in the beauty.
$200 pp and up for Cabinas that include 3 daily meals. $400 and up per night for their 2-bedroom houses (meals not included, but kitchen available). Reservations available at their website.
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